22nd February 2023

We had booked an excursion for today that was scheduled to leave the ship at 8 a.m. It was still dark outside as we ate breakfast in an unusually quiet restaurant at 6.30 a.m. The ship had yet to berth in Nawiliwili, a harbour known as a “day port”, meaning entry is a tricky manoeuvre due to prevailing evening winds. If the ship hasn’t departed by 5 p.m., it must remain in port until the following day.

While waiting in one of the bars to disembark, we were informed that one of the activities on our excursion had been cancelled. A hike through the beautiful and dramatic Waimea Canyon had to be called off after the police closed the area due to an ongoing incident. We later learned that a man had shot and killed his father during the night and had fled into the canyon heavily armed. Understandably, the police did not want a group of tourists wandering about while they conducted a manhunt.

This is America, and sadly, incidents like this seem all too common, barely raising an eyebrow.

We were given the choice of cancelling or continuing with the remaining planned activities. Along with most of the other passengers, we opted for the latter. A 20-minute drive took us to the Wailua River, where we boarded a small, barge-like vessel for a short cruise of a couple of miles upstream to the Fern Grotto,  a lava-rock grotto covered in ferns, located on the south fork of the river. This spot is often described as the most romantic on the island of Kauai and is even available to hire for weddings.

As the dense forest and hillsides slipped by, we were treated to Hawaiian music and Hula dancing. At our disembarkation point, a small landing stage awaited, and we filed off the craft in crocodile fashion, following a concreted path that wound its way through the forest up to the grotto. Our driver had mentioned that 13 inches of rain had fallen the previous day,  not unusual for an island that receives between 600 and 700 inches of rainfall annually. Parts of the path had become shallow, flowing streams, forcing those without suitable footwear to tread very carefully.

Upon reaching the grotto, we took the obligatory photos. In the past, weddings were held inside the grotto itself, but due to Health and Safety regulations, they are now conducted on the observation deck facing it. The small band and dancer who had entertained us so well on the boat now performed a traditional Hawaiian wedding ceremony for our group.

As we left the viewing platform, another group was beginning to arrive, making the already narrow and slippery path back to the river even trickier for some. The return journey to the coach was a more subdued affair, allowing those with a keen eye a better opportunity to observe the river’s wildlife and the lush flora along the banks.

The next leg of our trip took us to ʻŌpaekaʻa Falls, a 151-foot-high, 40-foot-wide waterfall that cascades into a hidden pool below. It is one of the island’s most accessible waterfalls. We parked at the viewpoint just off the main road and spent around 15 minutes taking photos of both the falls and the numerous wild chickens that roam freely,  a quirky feature for which the island is well known.

We arrived back at the ship with plenty of time for lunch and a chance to venture out again in the afternoon. Feeling a little lazy, we took the complimentary shuttle for the five-minute journey to the small but charming nearby town of Kiliwiliwili. After a brief browse through a few tourist shops, we settled on the beach for a couple of hours of rest and relaxation in the warmth of the sun, idly watching the sunbathers and surfers from the large hotel overlooking the shore, before catching the shuttle back to the Crown Princess.

Tomorrow’s port isn’t large enough to accommodate the ship, so we’ll be anchoring a short distance offshore. This means we’ll be tendering to the pier at Lahaina, on the island of Maui. We’ve booked an excursion that involves cycling down the volcano (fingers crossed), so it will be another early start for us in the morning.

The ship departed at 5 p.m., and as we headed out to sea, it was clear that the waves were considerably larger than those experienced overnight. Walking around the ship required a little more care and balance.

Early in the evening, we checked the menu at the Da Vinci restaurant, but nothing particularly appealed, so we opted instead to dine in the buffet. We were pleasantly surprised by the wide variety of dishes on offer;  there was plenty to tempt the taste buds, and the atmosphere was far more relaxed than at lunchtime. The evening’s entertainment in the theatre featured the ship’s singers performing a medley of popular songs, but we decided to watch a film instead.